All about natural hair

The structure of the hair

Hair is divided into two parts: the bulb, or more commonly the root, and the shaft. It is implanted in what is called the follicle , present in the dermis of our skin.

Hair is made up of 3 concentric layers . The first layer is called the cuticle, it is external. It is also the strongest, the one that protects the hair from all kinds of aggressions. It is this layer that will represent the flexibility of your hair. The cuticle itself is formed of scales. The smoother, more regular and joined these scales are, the healthier your hair is. When the hair cuticle tears, the tearing spreads to the internal layers. The cuticle covers the second layer: the cortex. The cortex will define the strength and elasticity of your hair. Finally, the internal and central layer of the shaft is the medulla.

Keratin is the main component of hair; it is a protein that plays a protective role . It will also have an effect on the smoothness and shine of your hair.

The different types of hair

To define the different types of hair, we look at the nature of the hair, as well as its texture. Knowing your hair type is essential in order to make the right choices regarding hair care .

First, we can classify different hair types by their nature. Hair care brands claim that we commonly have three types of hair: normal hair, oily hair , and dry hair.

Normal hair is shiny, soft hair that detangles and styles easily.

In oily hair, the sebaceous gland secretes more sebum than other hair types.

Finally, dry hair is defined by dull, fragile hair. Unlike oily hair, dry hair often lacks sebum production.

Then, we can classify the different types of hair by their textures and shapes. We find normal, thick or fine hair. Normal hair is defined as a perfect balance between the notions of volume and movement . Thick hair is very easily recognizable by the volume it produces. Finally, fine hair is characterized by a light appearance and unlike thick hair, does not give this appearance of volume.

Finally, the classification by hair texture and shape can be completed by the classification devised by André Walker where hair was divided into four categories of hair types : straight, wavy, curly and frizzy hair. Hair types are divided into different subtypes which determine the thickness of the hair from the letter A to C: from the finest to the thickest.

The scalp

The scalp is, in a nutshell, the name given to the skin that covers our skull. It is on this same skin that our hair grows. Since the scalp is similar to our skin, it is composed of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The epidermis is found on the outer surface of the skin. The dermis, on the other hand, is the deep layer of the skin, covered by the epidermis. It is also in the dermis that we find the sebaceous glands . Deep down, we find the hypodermis, which is mainly made up of fat cells.

As nature is well made, the entire scalp helps protect our body against several attacks: cuts and physical shocks or even chemical attacks. It also allows the thermoregulation of our body.

Finally, the scalp is particularly important because it plays a role in the growth, health, and beauty of hair. This is why it is important to use cosmetic products that are gentle on the scalp, such as sulfate-free shampoos.

Hair pH and scalp

pH is a parameter that defines whether an environment is acidic or basic. pH is measured on a scale from 1 to 14. From 1 to 7, the environment is acidic. At 7, we are faced with a neutral environment. And finally, beyond 7, the environment is basic. To have healthier hair, The pH of your shampoo can make all the difference.

However, it is first important to note the difference between hair pH and scalp pH. Hair is composed of two distinct parts: the follicle and the shaft. The follicle is directly linked to the scalp since it represents the part buried in the scalp. The follicle therefore has the same pH as the scalp. The scalp is similar to our skin, so its pH fluctuates around 5.5. The scalp is therefore an acidic environment.

The hair shaft is composed of 95% keratin. Keratin has the characteristic of being charged positively or negatively depending on the environment. However, it reaches a neutral electrical charge when its pH reaches 3.67. Therefore, the pH of the scalp and the pH of the hair are very different , even though both are acidic.

Therefore, to have healthy natural hair, it is necessary to use a shampoo with a pH that is close to the figure of 3.67 but also a shampoo with a pH lower than 5.5. Above 5.5, shampoo can damage the hair to the point of creating scalp irritation. Shampoos with a pH higher than 8.5 can be stripping for the scalp. This is why it is recommended not to wash your hair with soap; because the pH of a soap is very basic (around 9).

The hair growth cycle

Hair begins in the follicle and grows through various cycles until it finally falls out. Each hair goes through three stages: anagen, catagen, and telogen. Each hair renews itself independently of the others.

Anagen is the hair growth phase. This phase lasts on average between 1 and 4 years. In women, this phase generally lasts longer than in men: 4 to 6 years compared to 2 to 4 years in men. This phase therefore determines the length of your hair.

Then there is the catagen phase. It is also referred to as the degradation phase. This phase corresponds to the cessation of hair growth . The hair is then between life and death since it stops growing without falling out. This phase lasts on average between 2 to 3 weeks.

Finally, the telogen phase corresponds to hair loss . The hair is permanently dead and will gradually fall out over 2 to 4 months. During this time, the next hair is formed.

Several factors influence the hair growth cycle. These factors include genetics, age, hormones, and nutritional status, but they can also vary depending on the season and length of sun exposure.

Hair color

Hair color is determined by a natural pigment: melanin. The more melanin your hair contains, the more colorful your hair will be. If your hair lacks melanin, it will appear white. Natural hair color is a mixture of eumelanin and pheomelanin , which determines the tone and highlights of your hair.

Eumelanin will give the hair a more brown tone, while pheomelanin will give the hair a lighter, blonder tone. We each have our own unique hair color because we each synthesize different amounts of melanin.

Hair color also varies with age : at birth, hair is light, then over time, it becomes darker. From the age of 35, we can see the first appearance of gray hairs.

The main hair problems

Oily scalp

An oily scalp is defined by excessive sebum production. This excessive sebum production can also be defined as hyperseborrhea of the scalp. The sebum will impregnate the scalp as well as part of the length of the hair shaft .

The scalp and hair will appear shiny and lack volume. Excessive sebum production can lead to dandruff or even hair loss.

An oily scalp can be caused by intrinsic characteristics but also by extrinsic characteristics such as pollution or stress.

Using artificial heat or using unsuitable hair care products can cause hair and scalp to become oily.

It is particularly sulfates , present in the majority of synthetic shampoos, which are accused of stripping the scalp , creating in return a defense mechanism of the scalp which will overproduce sebum to compensate.

Irritated scalp

Irritated scalp is defined by itching on the scalp . A feeling of dryness and a sensation of pain when touching the scalp may appear.

Visually, an irritated scalp presents with red patches on the scalp and dandruff . An irritated scalp develops due to pollution, stress, or an unbalanced diet . The scalp can also become irritated due to harsh shampoos and repeated artificial heat treatments.

To soothe an irritated scalp, it is necessary to use a gentle shampoo with a pH lower than 5.5. A shampoo that is too harsh on the scalp can further weaken it.

Films

Dandruff forms as a result of the epidermal cells accumulating on the surface of the skin renewing too quickly .

There are two types of dandruff: dry dandruff and oily dandruff. Dry dandruff appears as small white flakes. They do not adhere to the scalp. This is the most common type of dandruff.

Oily dandruff, on the other hand, is thicker, is impregnated with sebum, and adheres to the scalp. In the case of oily dandruff, the scalp is inflamed.

Dandruff is caused by scalp inflammation. Using hair dryers that emit excessive heat or washing your hair with a harsh shampoo that isn't suited to your hair type can also be potential causes of dandruff. To limit the appearance of dandruff, it's also important to rinse your shampoo thoroughly.

Dry lengths

When the lengths are dry, it means that the hair is lacking sebum. When the hair lacks sebum, it becomes dry or even brittle , and can even start to split . Dry hair is also hair that needs water.

It is particularly the repeated use of heating appliances that will damage the hair and then dry it out. As soon as the keratin contained in the hair is no longer protected by the hair scales, the hair will be less soft and will retain water less well, which will give this dry appearance.

Dry hair is particularly porous because the hair scales are open. As a result, water can no longer penetrate the hair due to the scales no longer closing.

To combat this problem, you'll need to revamp your hair care routine . Obviously, you should first limit your use of heated appliances and don't forget to use a heat protectant. You'll also want to avoid sulfate shampoos , which strip your hair and scalp.

You should also treat your hair gently : brush it gently from the ends to the roots. Finally, there are several techniques for moisturizing hair, such as aloe vera masks or natural hair care products.

Rinsing with diluted apple cider vinegar after showering also helps acidify the hair, which helps close the scales and protect the keratin.

Hair loss and alopecia

Every day, we lose a certain amount of hair. Typically, this amount is between 40 and 60 hairs per day. However, hair loss exceeding 100 hairs per day is categorized as excessive . Hair loss affects both men and women. Accelerated or excessive hair loss can be defined as alopecia.

Alopecia can be androgenetic, meaning hereditary. This form of alopecia will reduce hair volume and can lead to baldness. Alopecia can also be acute. Here, hair loss is linked to either nutritional deficiencies , hormonal disorders or chronic stress. Alopecia can, more rarely, be caused by skin problems.

Several behaviors can cause faster and more significant hair loss. Indeed, this can be due to excessive weight loss , malnutrition or even chronic stress . If hair loss is not hereditary, there are different ways to limit it. It is recommended to limit hair coloring , to use a gentle shampoo that does not attack the scalp or to adopt a healthy diet.

It is also recommended to make an appointment with your doctor if hair loss is significant and persistent, as it can be a symptom of deficiencies. A blood test will help clarify the situation.

The forks

Split ends are the result of a crack at the end of the hair's length, which then separates the hair into a split end, leaving two or more branches. Split ends are generally more common on long hair that tends to be dry.

There are several behaviors and causes that can lead to split ends.

First of all, brushing too aggressively , too hard can cause split ends. Then, obviously, if the hair is exposed to too high temperatures , the hair will be more vulnerable and will tend to crack. Using chemical hair products that are unsuitable for your hair type will also dry out the hair and ultimately cause it to break.

It's impossible to repair split ends because hair fibers are composed of dead cells. Only a visit to the hairdresser to trim split ends will keep your hair healthy.

To limit the appearance of split ends, certain actions should be taken, such as a good diet rich in vitamin E or good hydration and nutrition of the hair.

Taking care of your hair naturally

The blacklist

To take care of your hair naturally, several behaviors should be avoided. First of all, one of the biggest enemies of hair is heat. Indeed, whether it comes from water or heating appliances such as straighteners, curling irons or hair dryers, heat will damage the structure of the hair and then dry it out . The hair scales will open and the hair will be less protected, less soft, less shiny and will eventually break. Excess heat can also have a harmful effect on the scalp.

Next, chemical colorings should be avoided to have naturally healthy hair. Indeed, chemical coloring will modify the hair and separate the hair scales, which will firstly damage the hair but will also make it become dry and porous. Chemical colorings are particularly aggressive for the hair, which will harm its appearance and health. Obviously, chemical colorings are harmful to the hair, but they are also harmful to your health.

Finally, to have healthy natural hair, you need to focus on gently detangling your hair. Brushing your hair too hard will cause split ends . Detangling products are recommended because they reduce friction between the hairs.

Choosing your natural shampoo

Taking care of your hair naturally means using natural shampoo! When choosing a natural shampoo, first look for one that's free of sulfates and silicones.

A natural shampoo is chosen according to your hair type and scalp.

Fine hair will often be better suited to a shampoo with purifying active ingredients, while thick, dry, curly or frizzy hair will be better suited to a shampoo rich in nourishing active ingredients such as oils.

Afterwards, choose your natural shampoo It's also about choosing it based on its characteristics: is it an organic, vegan, or French-made shampoo? It depends on your own sensitivity! But beware of marketing claims . 

Finally, choosing a natural shampoo also depends on your budget. Natural shampoos are sometimes more expensive, but before making any purchase, it's important to understand what justifies the price of your shampoo: % naturalness, place of manufacture, brand commitment, etc.

Switching to natural shampoo: clarification

Before switching to natural shampoo, it is first necessary to understand why switching to natural shampoo is the solution to having healthy hair. The many problems our hair can suffer are very often related to the products we apply to our scalp. Indeed, shampoos and other "conventional" products contain controversial ingredients like silicones or sulfates which are on the one hand polluting but on the other hand harmful to the hair and scalp.

To switch to natural shampoo, you must first understand how to choose your natural shampoo.

After stopping the use of conventional shampoos, hair may become temporarily greasy. If this happens, clarifying with baking soda will be necessary to remove chemical residue. Baking soda added to a natural shampoo will remove all buildup of oils, silicones, and other ingredients. Thanks to baking soda, hair will be able to return to its true nature.

Be careful, baking soda is very stripping , so it is strongly recommended to make a natural nourishing mask after clarifying with baking soda. Clarifying with baking soda is not recommended for very dry or damaged hair because it has a very basic pH (9). It can easily tear the hair fibers which leads to split ends.

Hydration or nutrition?

To address various hair problems, it is important to be able to differentiate between dry hair and undernourished hair. Dry hair needs water, while undernourished hair needs nutrition . Nutrition and hydration are therefore two different responses to hair problems.

Hydration is essential for dry hair. Hair often becomes dry due to the repeated use of heated hairdryers. When exposed to heat, the keratin in the hair will no longer be protected, and the hair will become dry because it will no longer retain water well.

To moisturize the hair , this can be done through internal care by drinking more, although this type of hydration has no effect on the lengths. To moisturize the hair, we can use external care by applying treatments and masks with aloe vera, particularly rich in water.

Nutrition is essential for undernourished hair. Hair lacking nutrition is naturally fragile and brittle. This is particularly due to stressors such as coloring, bleaching, or perming. Through these various stresses, the amount of sebum in the scalp decreases, yet sebum is the best natural nutrient for hair.

To remedy this problem, it's necessary to space out shampoos so that the hair can rebuild itself with a normal dose of sebum. Masks rich in vegetable oils such as olive, hemp, or mirabelle plum oil can also nourish your hair.

Once a week you can also do an oil bath : a few drops distributed over the lengths before applying your natural shampoo or leave on overnight.

Effect of diet on hair

Taking care of your hair naturally also means realizing that hair health starts from the inside out. Therefore, it begins with a balanced diet tailored to your hair concerns.

For naturally healthy hair, there's nothing better than preparing delicious, healthy, and balanced homemade meals. Fruits, lean proteins, and low-fat dairy products will enhance your hair.

Vitamins, minerals, and trace elements are also essential for hair health. These include foods containing zinc, iron, vitamins A and B, and omega-3, which can easily improve the beauty and health of your hair.

For example, we find salmon, green vegetables, eggs or even carrots which will be able to provide elements which will respectively moisturize the scalp , space out washes and protect the hair cuticles, make the hair shiny or even prevent the premature appearance of white hair. Many foods have a power on the health of the hair.

A poor, unbalanced or poorly varied diet can lead to imbalances in the scalp, making hair dull and brittle. Foods with a high glycemic index can stimulate hormone secretion, which can affect the scalp. Hair will then fall out more easily and quickly than originally planned.

Accessories to adopt

To take care of your hair naturally but also to enhance it, there are several accessories to adopt ! Indeed, some accessories will allow you to take even more care of your hair while others will be able to beautify your hair naturally.

First of all, when it comes to hairbrushes, it's best to choose ones made of natural fibers like boar bristles, which are much softer and therefore won't damage your hair when brushing it gently. To let your hair dry without damaging it, microfiber wrap towels are also a good idea! You can also use cotton, such as an old t-shirt, to wrap your hair in after a shower.

Next, we strongly recommend adopting a silk pillowcase to accompany your nights. Indeed, the latter will notably reduce friction between your hair and the pillow, which will also generate fewer knots in your hair. The same goes for your scrunchies , choose silk!

To take care of your beautiful natural hair, we also recommend using a reusable hairnet that you will use frequently to apply your masks and natural treatments.

For those of you with curls, we recommend investing in a water spray that will help you reshape your curls every morning.

When it comes to beauty accessories , there's something for everyone! However, as the seasons go by, some accessories are more trendy than others. This year, for example, we've seen clips, large barrettes, headbands, and scarves come back into fashion. These accessories will dress up your hair naturally.

Natural hair routine

To have healthy, natural hair, you need to establish a whole routine ! Of course, it all starts with choosing the right natural shampoo for your hair type. Natural shampoo is chosen based on several criteria and the hair problems you encounter. We also prioritize sustainable cosmetics and the French economy !

For optimal washing results, 2 pumps of shampoo are also sufficient . If your hair is damaged, dry, or curly, a conditioner or mask may be helpful. After washing, it's best to air dry your hair or use a microfiber towel . Avoid heating appliances!

Finally, once the hair is dry, apply a few drops of vegetable oil or a leave-in to add shine to the hair.

Once you've finished using your natural shampoo, you can return the bottle ! You can return your old bottle to a local store that sells LAO.

Sources:

• Naizet, S., Greasy Hair (2016),https://www.scc-quebec.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Cheveux-gras-Soizic-Naizet-2016.pdf 

• Noye, A., “Hair problems, scalp conditions and pathologies: clinical treatments and advice at the pharmacy” (2013), https://hal.univ-lorraine.fr/hal-01733956/document

• Maria Fernanda Reis Gavazzoni Dias,Andréia Munck de Almeida,Patricia Makino Rezende Cecato,Andre Ricardo Adriano, and Janine Pichler. The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality? International Journal of Trichology. 2014 Jul-Sep; 6(3): 95–99. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4158629/

• Capi, L., Hair loss, oily hair, Capilleo, Editor. (2014)

• Lee, Yoonhee et al. “Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer.” Annals of dermatology vol. 23.4 (2011): https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3229938/